While working on my very first project I ran out of yarn.
That may not seem like a big deal, but it was the thing that opened my eyes to two amazing discoveries: 1) local yarn shops; 2) varying textures and content of yarn.
I’m going to let you laugh at me, because to a seasoned yarn artist those two things are obvious. But to a newbie, working on their first project, they are discoveries!
I was lucky. Those two discoveries meant that as I progressed in my craft I could access the perfect yarn with different content depending on the needs of my project!
That’s important because, sadly, I still see a lot of crocheters creating and trying to sell pieces made from the absolutely wrong yarn. I think it’s because they haven’t discovered the wonderful world of Local Yarn Shops or realized that not all yarns are created equal.
That’s why I want to talk to you about this today. Now, if you’re more experienced and you’ve worked with yarn for some time, you may already know what I’m about to say. Take this as a refresher.
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If you’re new to yarn, or maybe you’ve only made accessories and would like to venture to more, this is for you.
Not all yarns are created equal. I know I just said that, but please bear with me as I elaborate.
Worsted weight acrylic is not meant for every project and can actually make a lovely project look unprofessional & cheap.
Cotton is also not meant for every project because it will stretch to weird shapes.
If you’re like me, you’ve picked up some yarn and a hook just to “wing it” because that’s one of the amazing things about letting creativity flow. But, it’s important to consider yarn texture and composition for every project.
Because we can talk about this for quite some time I’ve decided to share this information in three parts. Today we’re talking about weights and what they mean. In later articles we’ll talk about the best projects for each and how to choose.
Let’s talk about weight:
There are several categories of yarn weights and having an idea of what they are or mean will help as you decide on a yarn for any project.
Lace – This is the thinnest yarn available and is sometimes called cobweb because of the texture. It’s very light an airy and is best for very delicate lace projects that won’t see too much manipulation
Fingering – The next step up from lace with a slightly stronger texture. It’s used mostly for doilies and socks, but can be used for lace projects like shawls that need a bit more weight than the lace yarn has.
Sport – Sport yarn is light and perfect to use for baby because it’s very pliable and creates a soft, pliable piece.
Light Worsted – When I think of light worsted I think of the soft worsted yarns that can be used alone or together to make a stronger strand. I love to use this weight for scarves because it’s easier on my hands and creates a pliable piece.
Worsted – Worsted is a thicker heavier yarn that is great for blankets and certain types of sweaters. It works up quickly and is very warm.
Bulky – Just like it says, this yarn is bulky and fast! It’s great for blankets, scarves and fun stylish clothing. It can also be used for rugs (with the right content).
Roving – Finally there’s roving which is usually used for felting or spinning, but has recently started being used to create plush blankets
Figuring which weight will work best for your project is a vital first step to making the right decision about the perfect yarn.
That’s it! That’s all we have time for today, but next time I’ll talk to you about dye lots and gauge. There is a process to choosing the right yarn. It’s easy once you know what you’re working with. That’s what we’ll go into as we progress.
In the meantime, happy hooking and pay attention!